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Safari to Africa
Wild Beasts in the Wine Country

By Melanie Anderson

Giraffes, Cape buffalo, zebra, antelope, wildebeest, and exotic birds -- it feels like Africa but it’s the wine country.  Just outside Calistoga, Safari West brings Africa to Sonoma County for those who crave a walk on the wild side.

“A lot of people who can’t afford to go to Africa come here,” said Marie Martinez, the park’s cheetah handler.

For those who don’t have the time or money to go on an African safari, Sonoma County is an easy trip, with plenty of eye-candy scenery along the way.  

Sleeping in an authentic African tent amidst the sounds of exotic animals, or taking an open-air safari vehicle into wild animal enclosures, it’s easy to imagine yourself in the African Serengeti.  But Safari West is hardly off the beaten path.  If you don’t have a passport, and you only have a weekend, this may be the closest you ever get to Africa.

I am one of those people who dream of going on safari.  I crave the thrill of seeing dangerous and wild animals up close in their natural habitat, with only a photo lens between untamed beasts and me.

With plenty of water, rolling hills, ideal weather and a combination of grassland and forest similar to Africa, Sonoma County offers an environment that replicates the diversity of a savannah.

I finally went on my safari when my daughter and I visited Safari West, one of six private wildlife preserves in the United States.

When my 12-year-old daughter and I arrived on a warm and golden autumn afternoon, we were shown to our sleeping quarters -- an authentic African tent built on a wooden platform complete with a deck overlooking the giraffe enclosure.  Hardwood floors, large comfortable beds, custom furniture, an African-themed décor, and a bathroom gave the accommodations a luxurious feel.  However, the canvas walls -- not soundproof or cold proof -- made us feel as if we really were in the African bush.  A space heater and fan kept the tent warm overnight, but with only a net ceiling in the bathroom, it was too chilly to attempt a morning shower.  You won’t find televisions, telephones, alarm clocks, or internet access here.  Safari West is dictated by nature, not technology.  In addition, you won’t need an alarm clock either – the animals will wake you at sunrise.

With plenty of time to roam before dinner, we took a walk around the ranch, getting an up-close look at giraffes, ostriches and various antelope.  However, when we wandered up a road and came upon a herd of Cape buffalo, a little trickle of fear shivered down my spine.  They looked big, mean, and scary.  I’m sure the flimsy wire fencing that separated us from them couldn’t hold against a stampede if the animals so desired.  One bull in particular stared me down.

The next day, our safari tour guide, Milton Rieback, a South African native who worked at several big game parks in his country, informed us that Cape buffalo are one of Africa’s Big 5 -- one of the five most aggressive and dangerous animals in Africa.  These animals, Milton said, have killed more hunters than any other animal.  Though herbivores, these animals attack hunters to avoid becoming prey.

I told Milton about my walk the previous day and he laughed.  “They don’t want to come out here,” he said, sweeping his arm beyond the enclosure.  “They don’t know what’s out here, and they have plenty of room in there.”  Then he proceeded to open the gate, drive the safari jeep into the buffalo enclosure, and stop the vehicle within a few yards of these huge and dangerous animals.

With only 30 of these animals in all of North America, it was a privilege to see the small herd of six Cape buffalo at Safari West.  A baby had been born just a month prior and it was already quite large.

Our safari brought us up close to Watusi cattle, gemsbok, waterbuck and impala antelopes, wildebeest, and mountain sheep.  I was disappointed we missed the zebra, but it proved that these animals had plenty of space to roam and hide on the 400-acre preserve.

One of the highlights of our safari tour occurred when a giraffe and ostrich brazenly walked right up to the jeep to get an up-close peek at us.  The ostrich pecked repeatedly on the back of my daughter’s seat.  While she scrambled into my lap in fear, I thought it was cool we were practically nose-to-beak with the ostrich.  The giraffe walked up to my side of the jeep, and while I got a good look at its body a few inches away, the folks sitting on the upper deck of the jeep were eyeball-to-eyeball with the graceful giant.  We also learned why giraffes have black tongues – so they won’t burn in the hot African sun.

The walking portion of the tour takes visitors around the giraffe enclosure, inside the aviary, and to the cheetah enclosure.  The other animals we saw included lemurs, foxes, and a serval (which looks like a bobcat).

Owned by Peter and Nancy Lang, Safari West saw its humble beginnings in the Beverly Hills area back in 1972 with two eland antelopes, the largest of the antelope family.  The son of Otto Lang, who worked in the TV and movie industry, notably on the TV series “Flipper,” Peter grew up with exotic animals. 

In 1989, Lang relocated the preserve to 400 acres outside Calistoga.  His wife, Dr. Nancy Lang, is former curator of the San Francisco Zoo.  As well as managing staff, research and other duties at the preserve, she also teaches biology at Santa Rosa Junior College.  The Langs live in a ranch house on site as they oversee the many facets of the preserve, including hospitality.

Today the preserve is home to 450 individual animals, with 90 different species living on the ranch, including exotic birds and 30 different species of mammals, said registrar Kimberly Robertson.  Robertson’s other duties include nursing newborns and overseeing the hatchery.  Most of the animals at Safari West are natives of Africa, but some also come from Asia, Madagascar, and India.

The ongoing mission of Safari West is to conserve wildlife preservation through breeding, education, research, and public interaction.

Safari West is home to a few endangered species, including two cheetahs -- sisters that came to the preserve when they were just six weeks old.  Handler Marie Martinez is responsible for these cats, named Thula (meaning soft and quiet) and Gijima (fast).  Their grandparents were born in the wild, but these sisters came from Oklahoma.

Clearly, Martinez loves her work and the animals she cares for.  The fastest animal on earth, cheetahs can run 70 miles per hour.  They also have the largest litter of any of the wild large cats, about four to six kittens.  However, cheetahs do not breed well in captivity, she said.  Cheetahs are known for their spots, about 3,000 of them.  With their small ears, they are sight-oriented; meaning they will chase after something they see, not hear.  During our visit, we saw one of the cheetahs stalking a pygmy goat outside her enclosure.  I asked Milton if it was a constant tease to have so many animals within sight of the cheetahs, but he said it was good for their natural hunting instincts.

For fun, Thula and Gijima play soccer, ride around the park in a golf cart or safari jeep and take walks.  The cheetahs are kept on leashes outside their half-acre enclosure and watched carefully.  Though the cats are friendly and affectionate with their handlers, Martinez never forgets they are wild animals.  She has been bitten, scratched, and dragged.  No big cat ever makes a good pet, she cautioned.

Today, there are less than 50 cheetahs left in Iran and about 8,000 in Africa.  None is left in India -- the last two were shot in 1951.  Cheetahs originated in the United States.

In the wild, cheetahs will run down their prey and trip them.  Before eating, the cat must rest for 30 minutes to catch its breath.  Cheetahs are known as the “scaredy-cats” of the big cats.  A vulture who wants its prey can easily scare off the cats.  Hardly fierce, Thula and Gijima are frightened by wild turkeys that drop into the ranch for a visit.

We left Safari West feeling as if we really had a taste of Africa, without the expense and time of actually traveling halfway around the world.  The tent accommodations, giraffe enclosures, and jeep safari lent an authentic feel to our quick jaunt to the wine country’s “Africa.”

But, someday, the call of the wild will see me in Africa, camera in hand.


Contact Information

Safari West Wildlife Preserve and Tent Camp
3115 Porter Creek Road
Santa Rosa, CA  95404
(707) 579-2551 or (800) 616-2695
safariwest@safariwest.com

http://www.safariwest.com

Situated between the Napa and Sonoma valleys, Safari West is open year-round and offers 30 tent accommodations and one cottage.  Breakfast is complimentary; lunch and dinner are an additional cost.  Jeep tours, behind the scenes tour, cheetah photos, and hiking trails are also offered.
 
Directions

From San Francisco

Located about an hour north of San Francisco.  Take Hwy 101 north.  Take the River Road exit. The exit is also marked Calistoga/Mark West Springs Rd. Exit the freeway and turn right.  You will be on Mark West Springs Road heading east towards Calistoga.  Remain on this road for seven miles.  At Franz Valley Road, turn left directly into entrance of Safari West.  

From Sacramento

Take I-80 west to Hwy 12 Napa exit.  Cross the valley and turn right on Hwy 29 for Napa and Calistoga.  At Rutherford, Hwy. 128 joins Hwy. 29.  Remain on Hwy. 128, going past, not through Calistoga, one mile.  Turn left on Petrified Forest, toward Santa Rosa.  Go 4.5 miles.  Turn right on Porter Creek Rd.  Go 3 miles.  At Franz Valley Road, turn right directly into entrance.  Do not take Franz Valley School Road.

Photo courtesy
Melanie Anderson
Ó 2007 Melanie Anderson

DisclaimersÓ 2007 Gold Country Families E-Magazine