Hotel Benbow
Garberville, California

By Christie Nelson

Strolling into the wood paneled Common Room of historic Hotel Benbow; it took a moment for my eyes to adjust to golden light spilling from lampshades onto polished tables and upholstered sofas.  Guests sat at game tables absorbed in crossword puzzles or reading.  A warm breeze laced with the aromatic scent of the forest wafted through the open French Doors. 

From across the room, a concierge called, “Welcome.  May we help you?”  Suddenly I felt like I was much further than the four hours it had taken us to travel here from the Bay Area.  Whatever cares I packed melted off my shoulders. 

My husband and I had made the AAA Four-Diamond Benbow Hotel, north of Ukiah and south of Eureka, our halfway destination on our way to the fishing village of Trinidad where we’d spend a long weekend.  We invited friends to join us and they were as pleased as we were to find an excuse to spend a night at either end of the trip in this renowned fifty six-room inn with a glorious past. 

Built in 1926, the three story white Tudor resort rises above the banks of the Eel River set in the midst of trees and gardens.  It’s easy to imagine Hollywood starlets and their leading men motoring along the Avenue of the Giant Sequoias just as we have done for a bit of elegant hospitality and seclusion.  Outdoor pleasures include riding, golf, hiking, fishing, swimming and canoeing.  Nearby there is also an award-winning RV Resort.

Fine dining and a Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence wine list beckoned in the formal dining room and on the terrace where tables were draped in white linen and overlooked the river.

On our first night, we had booked a king size room on the lower floor that opens onto a small patio.  Our friends booked a room on the third floor.  We instantly noticed that an elevator was not available and joked that climbing the stairs was part of the ambiance.  Since we’d missed the complimentary wine bar, we decided to tuck into our accommodations and plan to meet soon for cocktails and dinner. 

Our large antique filled Terrace Room was quite comfortable with all the amenities—a comfortable bed with fresh linens, a television inside an armoire, wing back chairs beside a window, sherry in a crystal decanter on a mahogany sideboard, and lovely prints on the walls.  Entrance to the room was either down the stairs from the Common Room or through a door off the lawn on the ground floor.  An adjacent parking lot allowed guests in wheelchairs to enter from this ground level location.  Signs were posted that additional wheel chair access was under construction.  

Our friends were ensconced in a bright Deluxe King Room on the third floor with a dappled view to the outdoors.  They especially enjoyed the workings of a mechanical clock set in a carved, five-foot high walnut casing.  “Standard Time” was etched in gold lettering on its glass face.  We agreed the faint drip of a bathroom faucet was preferable to a cold water filled pitcher and bowl offered to guests back when the hotel was built and we’re grateful for the indoor plumbing. 

 Our unhurried dinner, graciously served in the airy dining room, lived up to its reputation—we choose from a varied selection of deliciously prepared entrees, fresh vegetables, some of which come from Benbow’s garden, seasonal soups, and a well-balanced Pinot Noir topped off by a one wicked slice of chocolate cake presented with four forks.  Pushing away from the table, we stepped out into the crisp night air onto the terrace strung with twinkling lights.  Back inside the Common Room, we pulled chairs up to a game table and began a rousing game of Mexican dominoes. 

Glancing around the hotel, I was happy to know that in the morning we’d enjoy a relaxed breakfast and then  return to the Benbow Hotel on the final leg of our journey.

To come upon the Benbow Hotel with its old world sense of leisure and hospitality right in the middle of the woods, is remarkable.  What you’re paying for is atmosphere all in capital letters.  I would have loved to see a fire blazing in the brick fireplace on a winter’s evening.  Apparently, the month long celebration of Christmas at the Benbow is a wonder to behold.        

Clearly, this was a remote hide-away in the great outdoors.  In my younger days, I would have hit the hiking trail or dove into the river and swam to the raft.  It was lovely to see children hitting the croquet mallet and dashing about the grass while their parents lounged in lawn chairs.  We did enjoy a walk up to the lake and a peek at the garden.  Plan your stay so you can participate in the 3PM Afternoon Tea and check the website to see what special events and packages are on the calendar.  Also, ask about the AARP rate. 

The Common Room, beautifully furnished, and the terrace were my favorite spots.  It’s as if the old mechanical clock was turned back nearly one hundred years and it’s the easiest thing in the world to strike up a friendly conversation with another guest as I did with a couple from Missouri who were entranced with the beauty of California’s North Coast and the old world charm of Hotel Benbow.      

Hotel Benbow, Garberville, California
          707-923-2124
          http://www.benbowinn.com
          Reservations: 800-355-3301 

Photos Courtesy of Benbow Inn
© 2007 Christie Nelson